The words "dim sum" literally mean "to touch your heart." And after eating through a mountain of these bite-size Chinese delicacies this morning, I did smile and pat my Singaporean friend Ron on the back to thank him for bringing us to Jing Fong. The restaurant is located in central Chinatown. It is, according to my Chinese friends who were there, one of the best purveyors of dim sum in the city. There's no ordering in a dim sum restaurant. Waitresses roll around carts stacked high with steaming baskets. You'll find everything from shrimp dumplings to chicken feet to char siu bao (steamed buns with roast pork). All of this is washed down with 20 servings of green tea. Somehow, dim sum makes the classic American brunch of eggs, sausage and pancakes move lower on the totem pole of culinary art. Jing Fong Restaurant, 18 Elizabeth Street (off Canal Street). 212.964.5256.